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Barmy Army


Tall dark and handsome, these guys are labelled as the 8th wonder of the world. Yep it’s the Terracotta Warriors of Xi’an.

So this ancient capital of China (one of many), Xi’an is the only city that still retains its old wall, but as China expands, this place now overflows its prior boundaries. The Warriors are located 1.5 hour bus ride out the city for a grand total of 7yuan/70p/$1, though entry was a more expensive 150yuan/£15/$21. Consisting of 3 pits, exhibition hall and cinema, you are taken through the history and discovery of the Terracotta Army, viewing of the unearthed warriors, as well getting close up to a selection of soldiers (well as close as you can by fighting with the other tourists vying for the same picture).

The city itself is all hustle and bustle, none more so than the Muslim Quarter, an experience in itself with its street stalls selling various items from walnuts, plum juice, sesame bread to cow liver… an interesting combination of smells ensue to compliment the din other pedestrians, moped towed carts and cars that fight for space in the narrow streets…an unique experience.

Health wise, my lungs have already aged considerably as China is apparently the 1960s equivalent of England when it comes to smoking… in streets, hostels, restaurants and trains, there seems no escape.

A meal for 2 is averaging at £6 at the moment, that includes rice, two dishes (meat and vegetable) and drinks… did I mention the food is incredible! And no upset stomach (yet). Win. Tanya is intolerant to gluten/wheat/barley products, which includes China’s number 1 ingredient… soy sauce! This does means it takes longer to find an appropriate place that can match our requirements but so far so good! Our Chinese translations of ‘no gluten/soy sauce’ certainly help.

Other cultural sites visited in Xi’an include the Bell and Drum Tower, situated on West Street (amusing if you’re from Sheffield, as their equivalent named road is far different), where you get a taste of traditional life in the city as well as a performance of the aforementioned instruments… I never thought I’d hear Auld Lang Syne played on traditional Chinese percussion, but there you go!

My first Chinese mass saw me take to the pulpit ... as I was asked to do the 2nd reading of the service, luckily for me the mass was said in English. My learning of the Chinese hasn’t really gone beyond saying ‘Hello’ and ‘Thank you’, though learning ‘Sorry, I can’t speak Chinese’ would be useful.

From your Chinese correspondent 

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