The Red Planet

No not quite Mars, but the Australian outback sure feels like another world. Where we were headed is locally known as Uluru but more well known internationally as Ayers Rock. One may question why anyone would want to go to the middle of nowhere to see a raised piece of earth. And that would be a valid question; my 10+ year younger self would reply, ‘Why wouldn’t you!?’ … and I stick by young me, having now been there and seen it and have a rational reason (other than the love of adventure).

Firstly, the outback and indeed all deserts have always captured my imagination with their untamed and mysterious nature (maybe my wonder began with the movie Aladdin, where Jafar goes in search of the lamp, or my admiration for nomadic people who manage to live and navigate in these surroundings…or a mixture of reasons). So, understandably then when we flew from the throbbing scenes of Sydney to the lonely heart of Australia, my eyes were fixed outside the window in awe of the unravelling arid landscape below.

My first surprise upon nearing our destination was that I had expected to see just flat land with the Rock to appear as a lone soldier (as every picture I’d seen portrays it so). Instead there were other rocky outcrops around (though still miles away), one such turned out to be its less famous brother, the Kata Tjuta rock formation.

So we arrived at the smallest airport I’ve ever been through (a strip of tarmac and a box of an airport building) and get whisked away by the complimentary bus service that brings us to the Ayers Rock Resort; a loop of sleepy accommodations, shopping and performance area, art gallery, fire station, medical centre, school, university department and observation points… and that’s pretty much it. We check into the hostel (most expensive hostel of the trip, but hey there aren’t many options in the middle of a desert), note the signs warning you of snakes and dingos then head to the shopping area on the shuttle bus that circuits around the complex every 15 minutes (with the 40°C heat and the presence of snakes, this is one place you don’t want to walk to the shops… and explains why the resort looked like a bit of a ghost town, it’s too hot to be outside for long!). In the ‘town centre’ there is one info/tourist point, one grocery store, one restaurant, one café, one newsagent, one bank, one hairdressers, one post office…and a few souvenir shops… you get the picture, not much to see, but you’re not here for the shops.

Such is the monopoly of the situation, living in a desert for 2 nights is long enough, since staying at the ‘cheapest’ (but still with excellent facilities (games room/internet/bar/fast food/ grill/ kitchen/ souvenir shop) accommodation, it was still the most expensive beds we’ve paid for all trip (maybe tied with the Halong Bay cruise in Vietnam. Our dorm was separate from the toilets/washing area and this wouldn’t normally be something I would point out, if it wasn’t for the aforementioned sign warning about animals you may come across, hence one holds ones need for the toilet until as close to dawn as one can, then does the frantic dash to the lavatory. I say this because again I should point out the location: desert + heat = a lot of drinking of fluid to remain hydrated and cool = need for the toilet increases.

Not forgetting the ants that want to bite the heck out of you

After all these experiences on the first day of arriving, you certainly hope that viewing this rock is going to be worth it, no least if you have to get up in the small hours to make it to the best viewing area (along with the other hundred pairs of keen eyes) to see the sunrise upon this special rock. I’m pleased to say it certainly was.

The rock

Initially we were a bit worried as it was rather cloudy when we drove to the viewing platform (unusual for the summer time) so we feared it would all be in vain. But on the horizon there was a strip of clear sky, and as the sun dawned, the clouds turned a fiery red, building up the excitement of the expectant crowd (armed to the teeth with photographic implements). The sun’s ray gradually lowered the dark veil over the rock and it lit up with such an intense hue of colour from its reddish surface, it really made you look in wonder and you begin to realise it really is more than ‘just a rock’. 

Uluru is rather special from a visual, geological, ecological and spiritual approach, which we learnt from our (free) tour by a park ranger. He explained the geology of its formation, reason for its animal attraction and cultural significance to the local aborigines; as a historical, social, spiritual and food source. The stories of their ancestral spirits that lived in the area, become their navigational tools as these ‘creatures’ left noticeable marks in the ground, which the aboriginal people guide themselves by.

Years of teaching at the rock

And all of which is why you don’t climb this rock; 1. The rock is layered vertically (due to its formation) so the sides are sheer and smooth, so nothing to stop you if you fall. 2. The human waste that is left on top of the rock has polluted the water that runs off it, thus the local wildlife suffer and numbers drop. 3. It is highly disrespectful to the aborigines who use the area for cultural initiations for male adulthood… you get the picture, just don’t do it, it’s not cool.

On a cold day (so in winter) or if you’re up really early, you can walk the path around the base of the rock, but with the sun fully risen, a stroll is the last thing you feel like doing. We opted for a look round the local cultural centre for more info on the area. But by mid 11am we were spent from the intense heat of the desert and returned to the resort for an air-conditioned escape with watermelon and the latest copy of the New Scientist magazine. Late afternoon, when the temperatures are more bearable, there are activities put on to give you a taste of aboriginal life, be it painting workshops, dance shows and how to use spears and boomerangs, all enjoyable even with the awkwardness of being persuaded to participate (well Tanya did, I had the excuse of ‘taking the pictures.’)

Overall the visual and cultural aspects of our jaunt in the outback, made up for the environmental harshness of the desert. If you get the opportunity it’s well worth doing, but I’d suggest it would be more enjoyable at winter time if you have the option. But my childhood self was very happy to finally see the big red rock in the big red desert of Australia.

Desert sunrise